Our bodies slid from left to right, from one side of our seat to the other, as our bus chauffeur took the seemingly endless hair-pin turns at full speed. trying to fight off the inevitable nausea and motion sickness was the supreme goal of this 5 hour journey from Palenque to San Cristobal de las Casas (San Cristobal), which took us from a mere 60m to an altitude of 2,200m and into the mountainous, rugged hills of the Chiapas State.
With each ascending, winding turn, the scenery changed and so did the climate. The tropical air, palm trees and thick humidity soon dissipated and we embraced the cool air and familiar yearn trees.
Pine trees in San Cristobal (by Leo through Wiki Commons)San Cristobal is located in Chiapas, the Southernmost state of Mexico. set in a small valley surrounded by pine-forest highlands, this lovely colonial city is the ideal place for exploring. There are various things to do in San Cristobal de las Casas to keep you busy for at least 5 days.
This state has the second largest indigenous population in the country and surrounding San Cristobal are dozens of Tzotzil and Tzeltal villages, just a short bus ride away. With numerous pedestrian-only streets, narrow cobblestone lanes and various towering churches and cathedrals, this is a great place to stay a while, and is one of the best places to visit in Mexico.
Nature & Landscapes
The first thing we discovered when arriving in the city were the mountains. We had become so accustomed to the flat terrain of the Yucatan area, so it was a breath of fresh air (literally) to be surrounded by such wild nature.
We had read about the San Cristobal Church and the Guadalupe Church, each set at opposite ends of the city and were really looking forward to going to them. The only catch was that we had to hike up numerous uneven steps to reach these sights. We made our way slowly up the steep rock-cut stairs, taking our time not only to rest, but to delight in the astounding views over the city down below and the surrounding mountains.
Views over San Cristobal de las Casas city
The churches were beautiful and there were only a couple of people around. We sat and delighted in the serenity and peace at these viewpoints before slowly venturing back to the maze of streets and speeding cars in the city below.
Views from Guadalupe Church
Although nature and mountains can be seen while staying in the city, there are numerous natural sights just outside of San Cristobal as well. The towering Misol Ha waterfall, Sumidero Canyon and the cascading waterfalls of Agua Azul are all great day trips from the city.
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The Coffee & cafe Culture
There seems to be a growing cafe culture in this city, which gives it a bit of a European feel. Tourists and locals alike spend hours a day enjoying a cup of Chiapas’ finest beans. producing 4 million sacks of coffee each year, Mexico ranks 5th in the world behind the likes of Colombia and Brazil. We would spend our mornings lazily sipping on a freshly pressed cup of coffee while planning out our day. during the evenings we would wander by different cafes and be enticed inside by the strong waft of coffee beans and dynamic live music.
Nick under the umbrella – A beautiful area to delight in a cup of coffee
Churches, Convents & Plazas
While exploring the city, we stumbled upon numerous pastel coloured, historic churches, convents and plazas. Some we planned to visit, others we were pleasantly amazed by as we rounded the street corner.
Beautiful Templo de Santo Domingo, one of the numerous beautiful churches here
We were even lucky enough to see some conventional dancing at the main square, which was really a treat.
Traditional dancing in the plaza
The Plaza 31 de Marzo, Templo de Santo Domingo and Church of Santiago were highlights for us. As far as walkable cities go, San Cristobal is one of the best! With numerous pedestrian-only streets, sauntering around this city while gazing up at the architecture and mountainous backdrop was an pleasurable experience.
Plaza 31 de Marzo and the surrounding areas are great for walking and people watching
Markets & Food
One of the things that we really delight in when travelling is going to the local markets. The hustle and bustle of the vendors setting up their goods, people bartering for products and the overall vibe makes for an authentic and exciting experience. This is one of the best things to do in Mexico as a whole.
We explored the Municipal Market not only for pure enjoyment, but also with a purpose. We were on a mission to purchase local produce for dinner. We browsed, sniffed and felt the fresh fruits and vegetables before deciding on some we liked. the market was hectic, loud and a lot of fun to visit.
Selling chickens and roosters in the Municipal Market
The candy and crafts market near the San Francisco Church was also a highlight. here we wandered through the numerous aisles of sweets and textiles and even got lost in the maze of shops a few times.
Yum!
Not only are there food markets in San Cristobal, there are numerous art and textile markets as well. The indigenous people of Chiapas are known for their fantastic weaving skills; colourful blankets, scarves and clothing can be found available all over the city. We explored the daily, tented crafts market near the Templo de la Caridad where bohemian travellers and local Chamulan women sell everything from bracelets to leather bags. even though we weren’t there to purchase anything, it was a colourful and lively place to wander through.
Blinded By The Beauty…
Many people come to San Cristobal for a couple of days and are blinded by the bright churches, lively squares and colourful conventional clothing that is worn by the local people. It’s easy to come here as a traveler and only see the surface charm. but as each day went by in this city, we began to notice certain things. We learned much more about the ill-treatment of the indigenous people and the high levels of poverty that this state is plagued with.
Bright Church of Santa Lucia
As far as natural resources are concerned, Chiapas is the richest state in Mexico, yet economically it is the poorest. An astonishing 70% of people live below the poverty line. There is an embarrassing lack of resources for the inhabitants here (mainly the peasants, farmers and indigenous people).
According to Wikipedia and the Edinburgh Chiapas Solidarity Group, 18 out of every 100 people 15 years or older cannot read or write. Only 38% of homes have clean drinking water, 15% have drainage systems and less than 30% have access to electrical power or gas.
There have been uprisings and rebellions against the Mexican government in the past, with the most well-known being the Zapatista uprising of 1994, which took place on the day when the North American totally free trade agreement came into effect. The Zapatistas fought (and still fight) for autonomy of the state of Chiapas, support of indigenous people, public health, women’s rights and more.
Final Thoughts
Despite the in-your-face poverty and consistently saying “no, gracias” to 3-year-old children trying to sell us bracelets and blankets, we really did enjoy our time here. We weren’t ignoring the issues of Chiapas, but we’ve travelled to numerous 3rd world countries in the past and have experienced this type of poverty before. We chose to help where we could and to delight in the city for all of the positive things it has to offer tourists.
Enjoying the beautiful city of San Cristobal with some freshly made ice cream!
On the surface, San Cristobal is the ideal retreat for the weary traveller, and to the naked eye, this is a city full of spectacular sights, historic wonder, budget-friendly textiles and beautiful landscapes. but dare to dig a little deeper and you’ll find a culture and history that is as windy and bumpy as the bus ride that gets you here.
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