So much has occurred this last week it feels more like it’s been a month. since reuniting in Italy’s gorgeous southeastern region of Puglia, Mrs romance as well as I have done a great deal of checking out on foot.
In truth if our iPhones’ pedometers are to be trusted in any type of way, we’ve clocked up over 80km in the last week walking round ancient towns, paddling in stunning Adriatic beaches as well as tip-toeing with looming Roman, gothic as well as baroque cathedrals. most of which, by the way, I’ve performed in flip-flops – as well as they’ve almost had it.
So join us as the next stage of our European odyssey begins!
Jim & Christina xx
It’s the last day of Mrs Romance’s photography workshop with the lovely Carla Coulson. From all that I’ve heard, she’s had an incredible week discovering some valuable new skills that you’ll definitely be seeing the fruits of in the next few days – even within the online pages of this publish in fact.
By the way, don’t concern – Mrs romance didn’t drive off with Carla on the bike like this. After all, they weren’t using any type of helmets.
As Mrs Romance’s photography program comes to an end, the group has one last dinner together – with a round of spritz Aperol of course! Mrs R has told me a great deal about these guys. I believe she’s going to miss them!
Meanwhile, I’m aboard my flight from Stansted just about to find in to land at Bari flight terminal as the sun begins to set.
This isn’t Bari, by the way. This the next bit harbour town north of Bari called Molfetta.
It’s my very first full day in Italy as well as it’s like coming back home. The weather condition is perfect, the people of Bari are friendly as well as Mrs romance is excited to play tour guide around the city she has spent the past couple of days photographing. The white walls, small cobbled alleys as well as grand piazzas are a lens-junky’s paradise.
By the end of the day, we’ll have walked over 12½km.
Today, we make prepared to leave Bari as well as head further south. before we go, we’ve hunted out a bit location our buddy Gareth told us about called Vini e Cucina. even though Gareth hasn’t been to Bari for over 15 years, something told me this location would still be here.
Sure enough, Vini e Cucina is open for lunch – as well as what a lunch! There are no menus right here as well as the kitchen area has only a few choices you have to negotiate with the waiter, however the subterranean area with its wine cellar style vaulted ceiling makes for a gorgeous meal setting.
You can picture the people who have come to dine at Vini e Cucina throughout the years – as well as as you can see it’s been an osteria since 1870. This location is well worth hunting out.
Our next stop in Italy is the gorgeous harbour town of Monopoli. only three stops south on the train (about €3 each) as well as you’re in one of the most delightful parts of coastal Puglia.
The old city climbs right down to the water’s edge right here as well as you can see the fishermen going about their business, as this is still an operating fishing port.
Round the corner from our completely located AirBnB apartment is a fishmonger’s. On a foray for snacks, Mrs romance has popped her head round the door as well as found not only a extremely friendly regional shop owner however likewise the motivation behind the pattern on her shirt!
Further down towards the water we find a fisherman selling his catch from his trailer. whatever is so fresh right here – from the octopus to the giant shellfish. as well as the locals a truly excited about it too!
As we stand as well as admire the fisherman’s haul, more as well as more regional people gather round to buy up what’s on sale. It almost feels fake to be so close to this type of lifestyle, however this is the beauty of Italy. This kind of thing occurs daily here!
You can see more of what it’s like in Monopoli in our Instagram story we’ve likewise uploaded to Facebook. It’s a day in the life of Monopoli as well as takes you with what we’ve been getting as much as while we’ve been here.
Check it out.
Today we’ve hopped back on the train to go north again. This time, we’re only going one stop though to the famously quite town of Polignano. Its beach as well as old design pulls in locals as well as tourists as well as you can see why.
The narrow streets as well as looming beauty of Polignano’s sandstone homes produce an entrancing stroll with old Italy.
As for the beach, the ancient ramparts of the castle delve into the cliffs on the left as well as the stony beach runs directly into the crystal waters of the Adriatic Sea. These cliffs are likewise house to the Redbull Cliff-diving championships you may have heard about.
I wouldn’t, however you can picture this being almost irresistible for some wanting to fly off a high cliff into water. I believe I’ll just stick with a paddle as well as an ice cream though!We’ve made our method down to sea level for a dip. The water is so refreshing as well as the beach itself – although not sandy – is perfect for relaxing as well as doing a bit of research study for the rest of our trip on our Kobo.
The thing I like about the pebbles on the beach is they don’t get everywhere – unlike sand. They’re a bit lumpy to lie on, however compared to the delayed discomfort you get from sand, it’s a little trade off!
Back up the cliffs, we’re taking in the the afternoon views of Polignano. The stage they’re building just left of Mrs romance is most likely for the next Cliff-diving comp… or it might be a concert. We’re not sure! What we do understand is the views from up right here are amazing.
As we check out more of Polignano’s bit streets, we see this bit fellow. If you’ve been reading our IG Editions for a while, you’ll be familiar with Leash feline – our tethered neighbourhood kitty in Sydney. Leash Cat’s Italian counterpart – ‘Il Gatto Guinzaglio’ – is just as adorable as well as seems to be just as simple too. Not a sharp tool, I’m afraid.
This fellow on the other hand is sharp. A interesting chap we’ve satisfied as we sit to enjoy a quick gelato as well as drink. believe it or not he’s in his mid 80s and has travelled the world. However, his travelling came to an end when he was made a widower 12 years ago.
Before we head back to Monopoly, of program Mrs romance as well as I must eat. when again, we’ve taken our own advice about travelling in Italy and we’ve discovered a location that’s a bit bit away from the tourist crowd.
Only a street back from the piazza as well as two streets back from the old town proper, Trattoria Casa Mia is not only cheaper, its food is more authentically Italian, gorgeous quality, as well as much quieter, relaxing as well as sophisticated.
Mrs Romance’s polpo (octopus) is incredibly tender – as well as we now understand exactly how they do it. The fishermen will spend hours either whacking the dead octopus they’ve caught with a wooden paddle or thrashing them against the harbour walls.
But if there was a meal that I might eat for the rest of my life, this would be it.
Back in Monopoli we’re constantly drawn back to the harbour as well as its fishermen. It’s such an fascinating location to watch things happen. moments after this shot, this guy threw the web he’s bring into the shallow water off the boat ramp as well as hauled in a catch of little fish prepared for bait.
His boat – the Titti Formaggi – will no question be bringing in more food to offer off the harbour wall soon. We never discovered out what ‘Titti Formaggi’ meant, however there is a cheese shop that goes by the exact same name, so we presume there’s a connection.
It’s one more hot day in Monopoli as well as the locals are out in force right here at the town’s bit beach. this is sandy, however many of the locals prefer the huge rocks for lie out as well as bake on instead of the sand. perhaps since of the post-bathing discomfort I mentioned earlier, or perhaps it’s just they like the barbeque impact the hot stones have on their immaculate tans!
We’ve walked (clambered) all the method round the rocks to the beach as well as we’ve been rewarded with views of the water such as this one. completely clear, blue-green as well as immensely inviting. particularly when the mercury is nudging the 39°C mark.
However, when it’s truly hot, the only thing for it is gelato. Thankfully, Mrs romance always does her gelato research study as well as has discovered the town’s – if not the planet’s – finest gelato. right here at Frescolatte, they make the most insanely tasty as well as creamy gelato you can imagine.
Raimondo makes this stuff in the kitchen area at the back of the shop as well as it’s exquisite. The red berry one I’ve got is gorgeous as well as the pistachio flavour has permanently altered Mrs R’s brainwaves. I don’t understand what she’s going to do when we leave – I don’t believe she’ll cope!
Thankfully the temperature has dipped a little, so we’ve taken ourselves to our regional bar on the harbour – Bar Malindi. This location makes an excellent negroni (for €4 each btw) as well as has great deals of outside seating. We’ve pulled out our travel backgammon set as well as I’ve taken the chance to stimulate up a cigar.
It’s a Partagas Serie D No.5 if you’re interested. Yes, thanks, it was amazing!
This location is likewise accountable for our morning coffee – additional credit history goes to the baristas at Malindi!
And now it’s time for dinner. If you’re looking for pizza in Monopoli, the only location you should go is Ai Portici. It’s got a menu of over 100 pizzas as well as a quite incredible beer listing too. I believe I’ll be dreaming of this location for the rest of my life. excellent food.
When you’re in Italy as well as the waiter suggests grappa after your meal, I believe there is a legislation right here that states you must accept. particularly when you discoverout they serve a barrel-aged grappa called ‘barrique’. Smooth, caramel, woody – this is next level grappa.
Grappa, by the way, is an Italian digestivo liqueur. It’s made of distilling the grape stalks to make a extremely strong alcohol similar to schnapps or the Czech brew ‘slivovitz’. It’s likewise what Mrs romance terms as petrol.
I like it. A lot!
Well, we hope you’ve enjoyed this week’s IG Edition. We can’t wait to tell you more about what we’ve been up to, so stay tuned for more of our travel stories coming soon from the gorgeous Italian south-east.
Speak to you once again soon.
Jim & Christina xx